Diane: Although there was a lovely guest ranch that prepares 3 meals each day, I opted to camp directly adjacent to one of the larger hot springs. Some folks who pulled up beside us, when we arrived let us know about a cabin a couple of miles away that was available for free, first-come/first-serve all year. We investigated, but camping under the stars was just too beautiful to pass up for a cramped and very basic cabin. The surroundings by the hot spring are magnificent. The water is a perfect temperature. The view of the Milky Way last night was as full of stars as I've ever seen. And best of all, we've had the place to ourselves since we arrived.
Although we found cleansing waters, the water here is alkaline, just like the playa dust. Instead of finding our skin rehydrated after hopping into a pool, our skin would be even drier than before jumping in. When I stepped onto the bottom, I felt mud bubbling at each step. My first gut reaction was fear, because it felt like a giant monster coming to life. But as I relaxed, I noticed that the trapped heat/water/gas that was released resulted in small bubbles climbing up my skin, until they reached the surface. Quite the sensual experience - very gentle.
I could not get anyone to join me for a nature walk through the surrounding sagebrush environment. It was bleak, but interesting, once I looked up close. A dried-up river channel could provide shade for a good portion of the day. As could a large sage. By looking for deep green patches, I could spot potential hot spring sites. Even without a field guide, using simple powers of observation, I learned more about this land.
For instance, there are many ways to go “dry” as well as many stages of dryness in the desert –
The dry environment is harsh. Every ten miles or so, historical markers indicate one of the old pioneer routes. We drove along one of these routes for several hours. I didn’t really want to get out of the car, because the sun was blazing. The sand road was curvy with ruts and rocks. In a tough and comfy Suburban, it was rough riding. With a horse and wagon breaking down frequently and nothing for the horses to eat for miles around, it must have been hellish for the pioneers. Tom said that in this area, they only covered about 2 miles a day. How easy to despair, when all you could see in all directions was more desert. Even if they came across a hot spring, a potential oasis, there was no knowing whether the chemical mixture was appropriate or if it was cool enough for human uses.
I do like the plants of the desert. I loved this soft and fuzzy one. I photographed it in a park inside the city of Reno, but I think it has desert written all over it –
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